Egyptian Traders aka Touts

In Egypt, touts are called "traders" even though the trade is your money for their product or "service." Normally, traders are the "in your face" obnoxious men who thrust postcards, scarves, hats, sunglasses, bookmarks (anything you really don't want) in your face as you attempt to walk briskly toward a temple or other attraction that you really intend to spend money for. It is hard to keep in mind that this selling is their only livelihood and there are far fewer tourists to go around since the revolution.
Since the revolution of 2011 the traders have become even bolder, crowding the entrances of historical sites and creating a gauntlet between the tourist busses and the entrances. They approach everyone and do not take "no" for an answer. "No" is yes and no reply at all is "maybe" and "maybe later" becomes "yes" on the return to the bus ("you promised ..."). They are excellent in singling out the weaker members of the tourist herd (small delicate-looking ladies are a favorite target) and attacking them, draping scarves over their target's shoulders with the apparent philosophy of "you touch it you buy it." Beebee refuses to be a delicate-looking lady and ignores their overtures of "oh you look like a doctor with your glasses" (a common ploy in Cairo).
The day after Pati and Beebee (and the group) visited Karnak temple in Luxor, the guide told them that the traders had gone on strike at Karnak and closed the temple. This seemed incredible. What did it mean to go on strike? To refuse to hastle tourists? That didn't make sense. The only understandable scenario was that the traders blocked the tourists from entering, but that seemed extreme and where were the police in that case? There was no good explanation.
After weeks of trying to ignore traders, Pati and Beebee experienced a new kind of tout on the Nile cruise. These traders were primarily fishermen but also sold merchandise (or more likely the other way around). Traders would bring their boats alongside the Domina Prestige Nile cruise ship and offer their wares to anyone that was visible on the top deck or in windows. These traders were selling shirts. Each shirt was inside a plastic bag that the trader would heave onto the top deck (about 40 feet above water level) toward any passenger that seemed interested. The potential customer was expected to try on the shirt. If the shirt didn't fit (or wasn't wanted in the first place), the passenger would toss the shirt back down to the boat. (Yes, some shirts fell in the water.) If the shirt was wanted, the customer tossed the payment back down in the original plastic bag. (Yes, some money fell into the water.) The traders that accompanied the ship through the locks on the Nile (standing on the locks) also offered table cloths and napkins. It was amusing to watch, because the traders were far below. Then Beebee noticed that, as the water level lowered, the traders were getting much closer to the passengers! But the gates opened, and the traders were quickly left behind.

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Finally on the Nile

Written Monday 25 Feb 2013
Pati and Beebee are onboard the MS Domina Prestige for their trip on the Nile this week. The ship starts up the Nile (south) at 9:30 tonight. Tomorrow they meet with their group with their tour guide/Egyptologist to get the lowdown. Then the first excursion is sometime in the afternoon.
The group has 26 people plus a business guy plus the guide. Pati and Beebee are the only Americans in the group (probably the only Americans on the ship - maybe in Egypt). The other 24 in the group are British. Pati used a British tour company that he found on the internet, with very good reviews.

There are 72 cabins on this ship, so there are more than 140 passengers. There are other tour groups, each speaking their own country's language: so far German and Japanese have been overheard. Each tour group is seated together. The British group fills 3 tables at meals.

This afternoon Beebee had a leg/foot massage for 100 Egyptian pounds (around $16 US). Pati checked out the "hot tub" but didn't get in because it was icy cold. The swimming pool is cold too.

Pati and Beebee bought the all-inclusive drinks package so that they can get drinks "free" between 11:30 am and 11:30 pm each day. That includes bottled water, soft drinks, tea, coffee, juices, and alcoholic drinks. They have to pay for drinks outside that time, except at meals. Wine is only available at meals. It is VERY important to collect enough bottled water while it is "free," for use in the cabin and on tours. Passengers use bottled water to drink and to brush their teeth and tap water for bathing.

Beebee has sent a bundle of clothes to the laundry (happy happy joy joy) for about $20 US.

Internet access is available in the lobby for 20 Egyptian pounds (less than $3) for 1 hour, but the whole hour is used at once. That means writing all drafts offline and then posting in one marathon session.



Happy side note: Pati first made the round trip plane reservations between Cairo and Luxor using Expedia. However, Beebee became concerned about the short time they would have to switch planes when they got back to Cairo next week, since the first flight is domestic and the next flight is international, using 2 different terminals and having to handle their luggage themselves (not connecting flights). So Pati cancelled the Expedia flights (the agent couldn't figure out how to change just the return flight; her final suggestion was for Pati to change the flight in person after arriving in Luxor) and made the flight reservations directly with EgyptAir. When they got on the Cairo-to-Luxor flight, looking for seats in row 21, they found themselves seated in the second row. First/Business class! Beverages before takeoff! Meal service first! First bus to the terminal upon landing! And the best part - business class cost less through EgyptAir than coach cost through Expedia!

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