Wonder la a.k.a. Veegaland a.k.a. Wonderland

On Friday, March 22, 2013, Pati and Beebee went to Wonder la to escape the March heat in Fort Cochin. There are two amusement parks in India named Wonder la, one in Kochi (Cochin) and one in Bangalore. Their internet website is http://www.wonderla.com/ and there is a facebook page at /wonderla that seems to feature the park in Bangalore.  According to the brochure given to each visitor, they have had "150 lakh happy visitors."   (A lakh is a number used in India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, and elsewhere in South Asia to mean 100,000, so read the claim as 15 million happy customers.) Wonder la has changed names a few times; it has also been known as Veegaland (still printed on the receipts) and Wonderland.

And speaking of the brochure, every man, woman and child pictured (and every one pictured has typical Indian features) is wearing Western-style clothing.  That is to say, jeans and t-shirts. Yet no one in the park on that Friday was wearing jeans and a  t-shirt. On the other hand, the brochure did not show anyone in a typical Western bathing suit, and that is quite accurate. Indians dress modestly, even at amusement parks, and enjoy the dry rides and water rides fully clothed in everyday clothing. The only concession Beebee saw to accommodate the rides was that the ladies left their dupattas (long scarves) at home: this is a common-sense compromise for safety.  The only bare knees at the park belonged to infants and to Pati, who did wear Western-style swim trunks but with a modest t-shirt. Beebee wore calf-length fast-drying pants and a t-shirt.  Photography of the water rides is absolutely forbidden in the park.

Among many hundreds of visitors, Pati and Beebee were the only non-Indians. The park staff and other park visitors seemed genuinely happy to see them. Standard admission is about $10 USD but for twice that you can get a band (the Fastrack: No more Queues!) that lets you go to the front of every line - even the food lines. They bought the front of the line passes for themselves and their driver of several days, Simon (there was no way they could have lived with themselves if they had frolicked in a water park while he sat in a 100 degree parking lot waiting for them).  As it turned out, that was a good decision in another way, because Simon had been to the park before with his family and knew where the best rides were and the best order to visit them.  He rode a few dry rides with them, but skipped the water rides, probably because he hadn't come prepared with a change of clothes.

The park is fun, but like the people of South India, very gentle. One of the most interesting things Pati noted was how terrified people were on relatively tame rides after arriving via roads whose traffic may be the most terrifying in the world.  Most of the rides could be found in the kiddie section of a US park, but the riders screamed as if they were riding the Anaconda at Kings Dominion. On the other hand, Beebee was very happy to get off of the Spinning Coaster, which is, as its name suggests, a roller coaster with cars that spin as they move forward on the track.

After riding quite a few dry rides, they all went to the Vintage Kitchen for lunch.  Fortunately, Simon did the ordering for them.  Although a restaurant manager came up to them as they waited, saying "this is vegetarian only, " they replied that they did eat vegetarian and soon found themselves seated at one of the communal tables with their trays of food. The meals were like thali, with a large mound of rice and smaller bowls of chutneys.  Since there was absolutely no silverware (grab pinch of rice, dip in side dish, stuff in mouth - neatly!), Beebee had a flash of insight into what the manager meant by "vegetarian only."  They washed their hands at a large sink, and Simon (at least) dug in to eat. However, it was obvious to the restaurant staff that help was needed, so two large spoons were produced and the meal was consumed. The staff even brought napkins at the end, as well as a user survey, which Pati happily filled out.

After another hand-washing, they headed to the water rides.

Pati and Beebee were surprised to discover that some rides were segregated by gender (which Simon also did not seem to be aware of): at least one "Play Pool" was sign-posted "Gents" with another play pool apparently for women and children only.  Of the dry rides, Simon, Pati and Beebee also rode the Dashing Cars (bumper cars) together; Beebee noticed at the time that she was the only female on the track, and afterward noticed another bumper car ride (with only 3 riders) beside the first one for women and children only.

The water rides are a huge part of the park, with many slides and pools for floating.  While safety is clearly important in this park (apparently some scarier rides have been closed), the slides seem less safe than in the US because, for many of the slides, the riders are expected (required) to go down them head-first.  Beebee opted out of these slides.

While the park is not spectacular on a US scale, the people watching is world class. They are nice, friendly, and having a good time. It is pretty easy for Western visitors to have a good time too in that environment.  The best example of this occurred in the Wave Pool where Pati and Beebee stayed for their last 45 minutes in the park.  The Wave Pool is divided by a floating line several feet wide into the Gents on the left and the women and children on the right; the Gents side is larger.  As the pool filled with people waiting for the waves, Pati was surrounded by a group of young men who engaged him in conversation. They cheerfully encouraged him to cross the line and join Beebee on the ladies side, knowing that that there would be trouble if he did so.  Pati refused, but diplomatically. After about 30 minutes, Beebee was surrounded by a group of six curious teenage girls who asked the usual questions: What is your name? How old are you? Is that your husband over there? Do you have any children? And one question new to Beebee: What are your qualifications? (apparently meaning education) The girls were there with a (male) teacher and were celebrating a 15th birthday for one of the six. The girl who first addressed Beebee spoke the best English, and one or two could manage handshakes only.

After the Wave Pool, Pati and Beebee were ready to call it a day.   It was a very good day.  And even better because Simon was there.

A Fawlty Towers Moment

Pati and Beebee are staying two nights at a nice resort in Madurai. After arriving at about 2:30 pm without stopping for lunch, they "had the rest of the day free" (tour-speak for nothing else planned) to have a late lunch, wander about the property, and relax in their suite.

The restaurant is a large, simple-yet-elegant room with all dark wood furnishings. Pati and Beebee were greeted by a lovely hostess (let's call her Polly, although that probably isn't a common name for a resident of Tamil Nadu) and given their choice of tables. She then brought them the menus, one with many pages of Indian foods and one large laminated card with Italian food. Pati and Beebee were ready for some comfort food and decided to order two personal-sized pizzas from the Italian menu. They settled on a veggie pizza and a pork sausage pizza (the Fairfax County health nurse didn't say anything about pork...) and waited for the waiter to arrive to take their order.

On cue, the waiter (let's call him Manuel, although that probably isn't a common name here either) arrived and said, in English, "Are you ready?" Pati and Beebee said "yes." Manuel then collected the menus and walked away.

Pati and Beebee sat in shocked silence, unsure what had just happened. It seemed certain that no food could arrive if no food was ordered. After a few minutes, they caught the eye of the hostess and explained what had happened. She, in turn, wanted to be sure that it was a waiter that took the menus. Perhaps she did not know the word "waiter" but this remark was in keeping with a Fawlty Towers theme.

The hostess then personally attempted to take the order for the pizzas. This was clearly not in her job description, as she was unfamiliar with the Italian menu, but she tried valiantly. At this point, it was unclear just what would come out of the kitchen, but hungry people will eat what is set before them.

Faster than any pizza place in the US, two small pizzas arrived, a veggie and a pork sausage. They looked good and tasted good. The only surprise was that the "pork sausage" appeared to be sliced Vienna sausages. At least if it came out of a sealed can, it shouldn't cause food poisoning.

Hungry people will eat what is set before them.

Written Monday 11 March 2013

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Indian Traffic Rules

Written Sunday, 10 March 2013
When Pati and Beebee visited India the first time, they were puzzled by the traffic rules. Perhaps it was Northern India rules that were the problem. Pati and Beebee are now in South India. Simon, the driver assigned to take them on their 5-day tour through Kerara and Tamil Nadu, is a very good driver and obviously understands all the rules of the road. From close observation of Simon's driving, this is Beebee's new understanding of the rules.
Most roads are meant to carry traffic in both directions. Vehicles tend to stay to their left on the roadway.
Sometimes there is a dashed line or solid line(s) in the middle of the roadway. This is merely a suggestion of where the middle of fhe road is; it has nothing to do with where vehicles drive. This is true even when multiple lanes are indicated for both directions.
Each direction of traffic uses up to 110% of the roadway. (This is based on an assumption that the width of the shoulder on each side is approximately 10% of the width of the roadway itself.) Motorcycles frequently drive on the shoulder.
Passing of a slower vehicle is acceptable, provided that the opposing traffic is not occupying all of the space that would be needed for passing (except see above: it can be assumed that an opposing motorcycle will move over onto the shoulder). Passing a vehicle that is itself passing another vehicle is acceptable. (And so by induction...) Today Beebee saw a two-way roadway completely filled with traffic going in one direction.
The procedure for passing another vehicle is to ease to the right to see if anything is coming in the opposite direction; if there isn't (or if there is but there is enough space and/or time), honk at the other vehicle and then pass it, pulling back in front of it immediately.
if there is a fender-bender, stop and work it out with the other driver. Other drivers in the viscinity have the right to stop, get out, and help judge who is at fault. Whatever happens, do not get the police involved: there will be too much paperwork. (Pati and Beebee observed this happening today on a narrow road between Munnar and Madurai.)
Always drive as fast as you can. Beebee has not seen a speed limit sign yet (or possibly just doesn't recognize them when she sees them).
Beebee has not been able to fathom what traffic lights have to do with traffic in India.
Unlike some of Pati's posts, none of this has been made up.

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On the Road to Munnar, India

Pati and Beebee left Fort Cochin this morning (9 March 2013) at 6:30 am headed for Munnar with their driver, Simon. It was necessary to leave so early so that they could observe elephant washing beginning at 8 am on a river. They were the second group to arrive on the riverbank, and several other groups arrived before the elephants did. While waiting, they observed several Indian men out in the middle of the river washing clothes and then bathing themselves. Then elephants came down the same small road that the people followed from the main road; there were three of them with 2 handlers each. They were walked into the river and made to lie down on their sides; then their handlers scrubbed them good all over. It is a daily ritual, and everyone (elephants and handlers) seemed to enjoy the time in the river.

At about 9 am, Simon took Pati and Beebee to a homestay very near the elephant washing for breakfast. It was a simple delicious meal, with chipatti (flat round bread), potato curry, chickpea curry, tiny bananas, rice, coffee (for Pati), black tea (for Beebee), cold water, and spiced coconut meat and candied banana slices for dessert. The total cost, including tip, was 220 rupees ($4.40 USD). The husband and wife running the homestay were very friendly. The wife produced a guest register for Pati to sign, and proudly showed off her collection of small bills from visitors from many countries. Pati gave her a US one dollar bill for her collection. She is yet another type of world traveler: she stays at home, and the world comes to her.

Continuing on toward Munnar, Simon stopped at a roadside spice exhibit and store. Pati and Beebee were guided through a large garden where specimens of many spices were exhibited. (The guide, a young Indian woman, had very good English that switched between British English and American English.) They saw huge jackfruit for the first rime, and a gigantic form of bay leaf. After the tour, they stopped to buy some whole spices from the store associated with the garden. As they were finding their way back to the entrance, they were stopped by an Indian family who wanted to talk about the spices they bought. But that seemed to just be an excuse to talk with Americans. They were extremely friendly, and their (British-flavor) English was very good. From the wife, Beebee learned a word in their dialect (Malayalam) for "daughter": makal. Pati and Beebee miss their makal very much!

Finally in Munnar, Pati and Beebee checked into their hotel and had a small late lunch while their luggage was delivered to their room. Simon then drove them to the tea museum, where they watched a film on the history of tea in Munnar and then watched how tea leaves are processed. One of the workers in the factory took a special interest in Pati and let him "beyond the ropes" to see the machines up close. The worker took Pati and Beebee through each part of the process, even to the drying room where he fed wood logs to the huge stove. He posed for a picture in front of the fire and seemed to enjoy explaining the whole process.

Simon with Munnar Tea Plantation

After the tea museum, Simon drove Pati and Beebee to a lookout point and directed them to walk down a steep road into a tea plantation so that they could see the plants up close. The scenery is so beautiful; it is hard to stop taking pictures.

Simon then drove them back to their hotel, and he went off to spend the night with a friend. He will be back at 9:30 am Sunday to continue the tour to Madurai, where Pati and Beebee will spend the next 2 nights.

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Cochin, India Through Rafi's Eyes

On Tuesday 5 March 2013, their first day in Cochin, Pati and Beebee decided to "check in" with the tour company that is to take them on a 5-day excursion through the states of Kerara and Tamil Nadu beginning Saturday. The tour company is called Carnival Travel. Pati has been corresponding with Peter of Carnival Travel for several months to set up the visits and hotels. Peter has very good English and has been very helpful, even so far as to talk with the hotel owner in Cochin to make sure the room was confirmed, even though Peter and his company did not make the reservation and do not profit in any way (except in good will) from this service. Peter's father was at work and recomfirmed all the arrangements for the Carnival tour. He also was able to arrange for a guide/tuk-tuk driver to drive Pati and Beebee around Cochin for a few hours on Wednesday to see the local sights.
The guide's name was Rafi. (if it wasn't "Rafi" it was something that sounded like Rafi.) With about 3 hours of driving and viewing, they visited (in some forgotten order):

• The fishermen's village, where boats were drawn up on the sand
• An outdoor area where a large number of men were making a huge fishing net
• A spice market, where Pati and Beebee bought several kinds
• The laundry, where clothes are washed, dried, and ironed the old-fashoned way (beat against concrete blocks by a man up to his knees in water, hung on twisted hemp lines outside to dry, and ironed with a heavy (6 kg) metal iron heated by coconut shells burning inside it). This laundry is used by the hospitals and hotels. Beebee looked for their laundry but didn't see it.
• St Francis Chuch, where Vasco da Gama was buried for 14 years before his body was returned to Portugal
• A Jain temple
• A spice warehouse, where they observed piles of spices, one type per room (they saw the black pepper room and the ginger room)
• View Point, which was the top floor of a tourist store with a good view of the harbor
• The grand opening of an Ice cream shop. This happened by chance as they drove by and saw a video being made. Rafi stopped and everyone had a free chai masala and small handful of sugar crystals and raisins.
• A private museum being cared for by the widow of the owner
• An oriental-looking temple surrounded by a pond and a fence topped by barbed wire, open only once a year with much celebrating and elephants
• Various road side temples (with a stop just long enough for a photo out the side of the tuk/tuk), one of them for snakes (cobras)

After touring, they had lunch at Casa Linda, then napped in their air-conditioned room before attending a cultural performance that included kathakali. Here they were able to observe the actor applying makeup before the performance. Following this performance (the whole experience took 2.5 hours), they headed to Dal Roti for dinner. Pati and Beebee are vegetarians this week, which is hard in a town that prides itself on its seafood. After Beebee's food poisoning in Barcelona, they are trying to strictly follow the Fairfax County health nurse's admonition to avoid chicken and fish. Beef doesn't seem to be available here (where cows are sacred) and they will not eat lamb.
Written Wednesday 6 March 2013

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A dangerous transaction...

As Pati and Beebee have traveled, they have noticed that the TP rolls in their hotels have gotten smaller and smaller. Today, Pati noticed that their roll had only about 40 tissues. Upon inspection, he determined that it was actually a new roll!
While trying to learn their way around Cochin, Patti and Beebee walked to a sundries store that was about 10 feet by 15 feet in size. The merchant greeted them and asked what they wanted. At that point, eyes narrowed and voices became low. The merchant said "Sir, I am an honest man, but - out of curiosity - how much do you seek?" Pati held the merchant in a steely gaze and said "At least enough for five American wipes."
The merchant gasped and quickly closed the door to his shop. His voice came in a whisper "Such a thing can be had but it is very difficult and will be very expensive." Pati said he was willing to pay what was needed. The merchant then broached the question of grit and tried to offer extra coarse. Pati said "I will accept nothing rougher than medium." The merchant clicked his tongue and said "Come back - one hour." As Pati and Beebee left they heard pounding and beating sounds from the yard behind the shop. When they returned, the merchant spat out "Thirty rupees!" Pati threw down fifty and said keep the change (since 30 rupees is sixty American cents).
When they carried their prize back to the room (avoiding prying eyes), Beebee quickly hid it in a secret chamber.
Aside from the parts which are not, this is all true! The rest Pati made up.

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